No, that’s not a typo and not meant to be $1.50/lb. It is $150 a pound and that’s for the shoulder of a very special pig. Its back legs are more: $180 a pound, and they will be available in select areas in the U.S. on Monday. Mustard would be a sacrilege. After all, this is “5J 100% Pure Breed Ibrico de Bellota” ham from Spain.
The back story: More than 20 years ago, I had one of those taste epiphanies, the Proustian kind, where, embedded in your brain is a memory, an aroma, a texture and a story. One that is released upon even a near encounter with that said memory, aroma, texture, and story. I was in Barcelona, sitting with my husband and business partner, at a dank wine bar, slipping short, translucent, wafers of cured pork into our mouths and letting them gently rest upon our tongues until they melted away — not unlike the experience of transcendental sashimi. “What is this?,” we asked in our best Catalan, and the answer was simply “Jabugo.” Not like anything else we’ve had, but reminiscent of the experience of sampling a superlative prosciutto or culatello, I always thought Jabugo was the word for ham. That is, until last night.
Jabugo, in fact, is a place — a town in the southwest of Spain, near Portugal, where the world’s most prized 100% pure-bred pigs are raised. These pigs eat acorns, not the shells mind you, but only the “fruit” within, occasionally munch on some verdant grass, and have 5 acres each upon which to saunter and socialize.
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